OliveEyes@oliveeyes94
· Edited
Popped into Guerlain this afternoon
Oud Nude: Surprisingly oudy to begin. Nothing animalic or barnyard, but with a dark, timeworn woodiness. I also get a large dose of cinnamon/saffron which gives the oud a warm, spicy, fruit-like sweetness. I suppose this could be the raspberry note, but I don't really detect that. The spice cools, the oud softens, and the sweetness intensifies. Smells great. Middle Eastern-leaning woods with a creamy, vanillic, marzipan-rose sweetness. To me, it smells like a deep shade of reddish pink, streaked with brown. I think it would suit an elegant seductress of a woman more than a man, but it’s still very unisex. Coincidentally, I reviewed Penhaligon's Babylon today, which does smell rather similar. I'd be tempted by a 7.5/10, here, which for me, is a high score!
Musc Outreblanc: This doesn't really work on my skin! What begins as a clean, simple white musk soon takes on an algae-adjacent brininess. It's a note that feels familiar to me - L'Artisan Parfumeur Un Air de Bretagne gave me a similar impression, as do many aquatic fragrances of the late '90s/00s. This salty-mineral feeling takes hours to disappear when smelling up close, but in the air it slowly reverts back to the soft cleanliness of the opening with a pleasant metallic touch. For a very similar vibe, but without the saline edge, I'd go for Nasomatto Silver Musk, or for something warmer and more plush, Chanel 1957. I know this is well-loved, and despite liking where it eventually lands, the opening few hours just weren't for me. 3/10 for the first half, 7/10 for the second.
Whilst at Guerlain I reminded myself how good Angélique Noire, Patchouli Paris, Néroli Outrenoir, Cuir Béluga and Spiritueuse Double Vanille are. They're certainly my top 5 from the collection.