OliveEyes@oliveeyes94
I tried a few Frederic Malles earlier today
They were all tested on skin, and given a good 7 hours before finalising my thoughts.
Synthetic Nature: Gosh, this opens sharp - not in a citrusy way, but with angular, jagged greenery. Almost immediately, the florals enter. I smell shades of white, green and yellow, with a fresh, almost zesty lily jumping out the most. It reminds me of my ‘Spring Meadow’ kitchen surface cleaner, but it softens. The subtly vintage, mossy chypre base isn't to my taste, but the smell of bright, green lilies is rather nice. 6.75/10
Dans Tes Bras: Parma violets and a generous dose of musks. It doesn’t smell raunchy or animalic, but there’s a vintage, soapy twang to the violets that comes across a bit sour and dated. The cashmeran is strong too, draping everything in a metallic airiness that brings to mind a freshly pressed, pale lilac woolly jumper. Feminine to begin, moving towards unisex, but pretty retro throughout. It flutters between sour and powdery, but unfortunately ends up reminding me of a urinal cake. 3/10
Uncut Gem: Gingery citrus, dry spice and undeniably manly. It doesn’t smell particularly fresh, but dusty and timeworn, as if an old wooden chest has been unearthed from rooty foliage, its lid lifted to reveal unlit incense, worn leather and dirty musks. I really don't like this - it feels like a hodge-podge of troped masculinity that finishes sharp and abrasive, making me imagine an elderly man in a grubby tweed jacket. 2/10
L’Eau d’Hiver: This one is lovely. Fresh, powdery, honey-glazed purple florals. It doesn’t smell overly sweet and sugary, but smooth and velvety. The almond-scented face of heliotrope is my favourite way to experience nutty notes, and it comes through gorgeously here. Such a warm and inviting, yet grown and sexy scent. A tad feminine, perhaps, and a little too powdery for me to wear, but I really like it. 8.25/10
L'Eau joins the ranks of POAL, Musc Ravageur, Acne, Promise, The Moon, French Lover & Magnolia as my favourite FMs.
How about yours?
Wore it on September 25, 2026
- Afternoon
- Rainy
- Hot