When it’s a Fougypre

I’m wearing this lovely 1995 bottle of Patou PH on a mild summer’s day. It is an aromatic, floral, woody/leathery Fougypre— somewhere in between Derby and Le Troisiemme Homme, while simultaneously close to neither.

A floral heart is a rare beast in masculines but Derby and Le 3emme Homme have both. Patou PH skimps on the lavender though, instead highlighting a round blend of jasmine, rose, leather, civet, herbaceousness, and light spiciness.

In fact, the closest in spirit is the other floral chypre that is “masculine”, that being Inensé by Givenchy. These two are on opposite sides of the spectrum: one green and chipper, the other robust but somehow tender.

🚨 IT IS BOTH A FOUGERE AND A CHYPRE 🚨

The esníf:

Top: herbal blast— but not a green herbal blast. Drier spices: a definite pimento note. It has just the right amount of citrus to liven it up, pull you in, and inhale deeply. This also has menthol in it (it’s the EDT not aftershave) and I am sensitive to menthol (of all things???). Kerléo’s signature oaky woody accord from “1000” is hiding beneath this initial presentation of herbal citric notes. This phase is setting the stage for the grand display of the heart, which is what makes this fragrance great

Heart: a sudden shift to florals— round, rich, resinous but leathery. This and Derby are the closest in nature and thus the most infamous masculines that have been lost to time. There is a general classiness about this fragrance where the aromatic spices, herbs, and woody tones contrast the floral component gently. This is more feminine than “1000” in its softness and grace.

Base: this does die a bit at the end, but you do get a lovely civet and leather alongside the oaky/mossy accord, which is lifted from Kerléo’s own accord library. However, it is SOFTER than the oak in “1000”, meaning the counterpoint and balance of PPH is even more delicate

Not in my tops of time but of my masculines, this is an easy reach as it is well past the point of being non-offensive. In fact, this is the gentlemanly cologne that we have lost to time.

The brashness, ferocity, and cruelty of both vintage and modern masculines is not here. The stern oak and woody/spicy notes make this a masculine, but the tenderness of the floral heart bring a dapper— but not dandy— quality to it.

Patou PH is for a man who speaks softly, confidently, holds his tongue, and opens the door first for everyone.

He has no expectations, only a quiet, demure facial expression.

He may sit alone in a café, wait for the train in a double breasted suit and leather briefcase, or walk into his office with his chin up as his eyes scan the room.

An analytical strategist with a soft heart but agile mind.